Part 2: Curating the Conscientious wardrobe

It’s difficult to downplay the impacts of the fashion industry on the environment. The apparel sector accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, while 85% of textiles go to landfill each year. Even washing clothes releases 500,000 tonnes of microfibres into the ocean each year, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

Systemic change is needed to create a more circular textile economy. Tim Kasten, deputy director of the economy division for UN Environment, states: “It is evident that the moment for mainstreaming circularity and changing our consumption and production is here.” In addition to breaking free from the ‘disposable’ nature in which clothes are designed, sold and used, we also need to phase out microfibres and improve recycling processes.

We encourage taking small steps towards big changes on the issues of sustainability and equity around the world, and part of this is to exercise our power as conscientious consumers. So here’s the second part of our miniseries explaining how we, at Conscience Collective, have created more sustainable wardrobes:

Amirkaur

When I was first a university student, I felt it was critical that I achieved a look without it ‘costing the earth’. Living in Brighton, there was an incredible culture, full of vintage and second hand shops, places of wonder where you could browse and contemplate - what you wanted to look like, but also who you wanted to be, what was important to you.

This was the start of my sustainable wardrobe journey. Given my privilege, living where I did, able to choose what to buy or not to buy, I could decide what ethics would underpin my choices. So why would I support those producers who exploit garment workers, or the dislocation of a global economy to meet consumer demand and a throw away culture in the global North? From this vantage point, fast fashion could not be confused with value for money, but instead represented an appalling exploitation of both planet and people.

Where fashions fade, my approach to style comes from knowing what’s important to me, and what qualifies as worth wearing and a quality investment. Recently, I have increased my ambition for my wardrobe. I still commit to buying less and buying well. But I have realised that I have clothes for every occasion and activity. So rather than overly concentrate on ways of buying, the latest iteration of my sustainable wardrobe journey is centred on avoiding temptation, re-wearing and caring for what I have. As well as ‘shopping my wardrobe’, and finding so many happy memories along the way, I wash my clothes less and at lower temperatures, and line or airer dryer, and I share, swap and borrow. Most of all, I centre what I do on a commitment to a sense of style that emanates from within, rather than something I put on.

Caitlin

It is our collective consumption habits that drive the demand for unethical and environmentally damaging fashion garments. My outlook changed significantly when I realised that my love of buying and wearing new clothes was fueling fast fashion. I believe that whilst we (rightly) criticise the production processes of large fashion houses, we don’t always acknowledge our own crucial role in demand-driven supply chains.

I committed to buying less and buying well, reusing and upcycling pieces wherever possible, and purchasing from vintage stores and charity shops. The change was really positive for me, not only in reducing my environmental impact, but also in finding a style that is unique to me. Changing my focus from always having something ‘new’ to wear, to reducing my consumption and buying second-hand, I found that I could create my own identifiable style. For example, this reworked vintage jacket is a staple in my wardrobe and a piece that is completely unique.

Caitlin wearing her reworked vintage denim jacket

Clothes are a mode of expression, and (paradoxically) I only fully appreciated this when I reduced my consumption and learnt to cherish every item. Now I have more fun with my clothes, and rework or restyle pieces to fit fashions that I like, rather than buying new.

Creating a more sustainable wardrobe has not only allowed me to act in good conscience, but also express confidence and personality through my style. Being creative with clothing has also led to regular wardrobe swaps with friends, which I find is a fun way to bring community into fashion. Through effectively ‘voting’ with my money, and advocating others who love fashion to do the same, my actions help to interrupt the consumption-production cycle that drives fast fashion forwards.

Anya

My grandma is a very generous woman. But by far the most generous gift I have ever received is when she gave me her grandmothers’ (my great, great grandmothers) Singer sewing machine.

I have had a passion for sewing with the Singer machine for years, since I was young at school – I started off with mending a lot of clothes, then creating pyjamas and other items which don’t require great technique. Recently I have taken on more ambitious projects, trusting myself to create items which I would love to wear when going out.

My grandma is a keen knitter, and over lockdown she knitted my family numerous snoods to keep us warm. After my grandma gifted me a hand-knitted snood, I liked the idea of turning it into a crop top, inspired by beautiful crocheted and knitted items of creatives such as thingsbyanthea. My mum has the amazing skill of keeping hold of reusable components (as well as clothes in general) and had kept a pair of matching thick black straps (which once belonged to a bra of hers). I used the Singer to sew these onto the snood, with the finished result below.

Anya wearing her hand-made knitted top

Finding innovative ways to be creative with fashion, without costing the environment or relying on unethical practices and consumerism to constantly keep up with new trends can be fun. It can be both a form of self-care and relaxation. It can be stimulating and satisfying. Let's be playful with fashion, pushing for small changes together, to look after ourselves, the environment and people across the world in better ways.

Written by Amirkaur, Caitlin and Anya - Conscience Collective